Smooth dash..

Gauges and vent fitment looks good.

This is what i did with the upper dash pad.

I cut out the hump for the factory gauges then glued some cardboard in and smoothed out with body filler.

Then put down some aluminum foil so the fiberglass won’t stick.

Then layed down the fiberglass.

Trimmed the fiberglass and fit the dash pad.

Finished up the rest with body filler.

I got the panels primed and did a tracer coat so that i can see the contrast.

Installed in the car..

Fitment looks good after some trimming.

Rear wings were glassed in to give a it a stream line look.

The mold was then filled with foam to help support the form.

Then wrapped in aluminum foil so the fiberglass won’t stick.

Here is the “lid” of the center console being created.

After trimming

Then installed.. Looks good.

Here is the center console installed back into the car.

Time to lay some fiberglass…

New dash pulled out of the car.

Here is it after trimming the extra fiberglass.

Glassing the center pod for the LCD screen.

And the back side of the dash.

Digital gauges were installed from a dodge dakota. I keep going back and forth about doing some vinyl and paint the center peaces the acc. color or satin paint and the center the acc. color in shiny.

Finishing up the side panels.

Built two boxes for the amplifiers.

Starting working on the back. The compressors will be hidden and the tank and amps will be show.

Here is everything being mocked up, ready for fiberglass.

Here is a picture of with the fiberglass curing.

Here it is after being trimmed.

Another shot from the back seat. Everything fits nicely.

Finally the outside edge was finished.

You can see the fiberglass work better outside in the sun.

Here is what it’s covering, if you remember.

Layed down the masking tape.

Then the glass work for the bottom of the box.

Finished up the front of the box as well.

Here it is after the body filler.

Trim rings made.

Rear trim panel being framed up.

Glassed the back panel.

Cut the extra fiberglass off.

Side panel being glassed.

Side panels trimmed.

Started getting the motor ready with a ported pump and new cam in.

New springs and retainers were installed. The VIG. 3600 converter came in today as well.

I’m going to get everything running and working then pull it all apart again and paint everything.

Will start on the interior soon.

Here are a few pictures with the fenders off.

All welded up and grinded smooth.

With the master cylinder in so u can see how it fits..

Here is the car raised up was the ride height. I bring the car up just so the tire clear the fenders for turning.

Here is the “Hot Rod” style.

Here is “Cali” style.

This was the old set up in the car. It was a 5 gal tank with 2 compressors and worked really good and had plenty of air for the car at 160 psi but that was with the v6.

I am running 20×10 with 5″ back space and the tire is a 295/30/20. The gas tank does go over the rear end I am getting a custom one made for the stock location and stock sender unit. I made custom brackets in the front with a regular bag and a relocated shock. I now have adjustable QA1 for it front and rear. The car comes up off the ground to about stock. As for the rear end, it has a TA cover, 3.73s, , narrowed 3 3/4 on each side, moser axles and a stock LSD.

I cut the tunnel and am going to raise it.

This is the front bag mount. I’m still not finished. I have to do a little more work with the shock mount and bracin.

Here is the tub work from under side.

I was looking for a drop spindle but didn’t find one. It would make it a lot easier. The lower arm can only travel so much with that rear bushing the way it is so I stepped the a-arm and yes it will hold an alignment I have a caster camber gauge that I set every thing with. I think the tub work in the front is just as strong if not stronger than stock but I still have a few braces to put in.

The bags are 2500, and the sway bar will need custom mounting to work with the control arm. Air ride tech has some nice valves (big red valves) but its all what you are looking for. We have parker valves on this camaro. The more pressure you put in the bag, the more its going to raise the car. It’s not really pressure that’s going to give the car a firm ride, its the shock. I also like viair compressors. I hear air-zenith is really good and they are rebuild able.

I started by mocking up the summit universal 3″ x-pipe kit with Borla stainless Pro-xs mufflers.

I made sure that the exhaust had good clearance from the rear end.

After everything looked good, I tacked welded everything while it was still on the car.

Here is the exhaust still tack welded and removed from the car.

Here I finished welding all of the joints using my $150 Harbor Freight welder.

I thought I’d give it a little bit of a custom touch until I run the tailpipes out the back. I had some extra pipes so i just cut a 45 degree angle.

A great guide to build your own true duals exhaust here: http://www.lt1engine.com/tech/how-to-install-true-duals-exhaust/

Here is my parts list, including a long 1/4 extension.

I first drilled a hole in the in end of the extension.

Then tapered the end.

Cut and welded the bolt to the end of the 1/4 extension.

Here is the overall height when the adapter is fulling installed.

Here are the factory shift parts in the center console.

After measuring 2 3/8″ up from the base, I started to cut the shifter column.

Here is it cut.

Yanked the plastic rod out.

Test fit #1 is good. You press down to shift.

Test fit #2 looking good as well. A few things to finish it up but it looks and works good.

Interior Bezel Painting

I started out by cleaning the plastic interior pieces with 400 grit sand paper, dish soap and warm water.

I’m using Krylon Fusion satin black and clear for plastics and a bottle of gloss bright white touch up paint.

After two coats of satin black.

Taped off the pinstripe and painted it in.

Tape removed. It came out good.

Ready for the center console bezel.

Cleaned up and ready to mask off.

Using painters tape, I masked of the outside.

The inside was painted with satin black.

The tape removed, ready for pinstripe then clear coat.

Pinstripes all taped up.

Filled in with the touch up brush.